I've wanted a 5D for a long time, since last fall. So I began to do some research and quickly learned of all of the rumors of an impending replacement. It has gone by several names, back then the Canon 7D was a contender (I even jumped in), though now consensus has settled down to the Canon 5D mk II. Canon had revamped every other camera in its EOS lineup except the 5D. Expectations were that they'd announce it at PMA08.

PMA08 came and went (I was there) and no announcement. Then there were rumors around April 22. Nothing.

Then I had a problem with my 20D where auto focus failed. Suddenly I was without an SLR. I bided time playing with several point and shoots and started to think again about the 5D.

I did more research and more thinking. I did a price analysis. I posted questions on Flickr. I discussed it with other contacts and bloggers.

There were several features that I really wanted in an updated 5D:

• Higher usable ISO
• The self cleaning dust-reduction system in the Canon 40D
• Larger LCD (although the 5D's 2.5" is not bad)

Some of the other features introduced in the 40D like original decision data, and live view (because it would be useful for manually focusing macros) would have also been useful. And a Bluetooth link to a GPS for geotagging would have been the cat's meow.

All of my analysis pointed to the next possibility for Canon to announce an update for the 5D to be September at Photokina.

This lead me to also consider the downsides to a new 5D (albeit temporary ones):

• September is a whole summer gone by
• It won't be available in September (most likely), but one or two months after that
• I wouldn't want the first production run, I'd rather wait a few months and make sure there aren't problems like with the 1D mk III [1, 2, 3 and 4].
• There'd be a delay before Aperture supported it (most likely). It was months with the 40D.
• Nobody knows when it might come out, really
• Some people think Canon might not ever upgrade it
• The price would likely be much higher. Estimates are around $3500 (body only).

I even considered the following alternatives:

• I briefly looked at the 450D (XSi), but eliminated it for its size, durability and lack of a few key features (custom white balance, for one). Also the fact that they crammed 12 megapixels in the same space where my 20D has only 8 or the 40D has only 10 means there must be more noise.
• I considered getting a 40D for now until a new 5D is out. I found several good comparisons the two [1, 2 and 3] (my desire for full frame won that)
• I considered switching over the Nikon. I found a good comparison of the Nikon D3 to the Canon 5D. However, there are lots of tradeoffs. The D300 is not full frame, and while the D3 is, it is substantially more expensive ($5,000 body only at B&H) and much bigger and heavier eliminating it as a backpacking option. And then there's my investment in Canon L lenses to consider. Also, I like fast primes, Nikon isn't as good at that.
• HamWithCam suggested I look at a used 20D, or 5D to bide time for the new 5D. I didn't like the idea of buying another used body where the condition isn't really known.
• I even considered the 1D mk III, but it's not a full-frame, and while the 1Ds mk III is it has a lot of disadvantages. Cost ($8,000) size and weight, and the fact that there are 21 megapixels crammed into the same sensor size as the 5D. That cannot be good for noise. (it's a studio camera, anyway)

In the end I decided to buy the 5D now. It still has the best image quality of any DSLR even double its price, or in its size. It's a very well proven camera, and while it may be long in the tooth on "features", image quality is king. Then I found out that Canon was about to offer a $300 instant rebate in a couple of days (at the time). Decision made. I purchased mine at B&H.

Interestingly enough, my 20D came back from Canon Repair working again, even though they didn't fix it.

Now I have the best of both worlds.

TranceMist

I've been using PicLens for for a while now to browse the photo streams of my contacts' and discovering new users on Flickr. A while ago I wrote about two enhancements that would make PicLens much easier to use with Flickr. Others had similar ideas.

I decided to write to PicLens (using their Contact link) to let them know what I think.

Here's what I wrote:

I love using PicLens to browse Flickr.

However, I'm often frustrated by having to escape out of PicLens to mark a photo as a Favorite, or to leave a comment.

Adding these two features into PicLens, so I don't have to escape out would be a big improvement.

For example, if I could just hit the "f" (or "*") key while viewing a photo and have it marked as a favorite on Flickr.

If I could hit the "c" key and have a small dialog box pop-up to enter a comment.

That would be nirvana.

:)

A couple of weeks later I got a very nice reply from them in a personally written email (non form letter). Firstly, they thanked me for my thoughts and suggestions and mentioned that they have been "utterly amazed" by the incredible amount of support that Flickr users have shown them. They added that they plan to add "a load of new features" in the next few months, including options to share and save images, and that they would definitely consider my ideas (above).

They've also put together a Flickr community (pool) on Flickr called ImmersiveViews where the entire Cooliris Team is there.

Lastly, they invited me to participate in their beta program for the new features.

What a great response to a few suggestions.

I love PicLens.

TranceMist

I just got my 20D back from Canon's Repair Department (in Jamesburg, NJ), "unrepaired".

However, the camera works again! Here's what transpired...

On April 25th autofocus mysteriously failed on this camera. I had been shooting macros that morning, which while I mostly focused manually, I did also use AF. Later in the afternoon I connected the 20D to my Mac (via USB) and for the first time tried to control it remotely using Canon's CameraWindow utility. While I've occasionally connected this camera to this computer via USB before to download photos via Aperture, I usually take the CF card out and just put it in a card reader. In the 2.5 years since I've owned this camera, this is the first time I tried to run CameraWindow with it. Although I did use the EOS Utility about a year or so ago to set the "owner string" in the camera (both utilities were updated to the latest versions available from Canon's web site). From that moment forward, the camera would no longer auto-focus. I tried 5 different lenses. I tried cleaning the contacts. I called Canon Technical Support.

Alas, that same day I decided to send it into Canon for repair. Canon will provide a free estimate, and if you turn it down they will return your camera and not charge you.

FedEx picked up the camera on April 28th and on May 5th I received a "Repair Estimate" email from Canon for a total of $306.20. The breakdown was $290 for labor, $1.20 for tax, and $15 for shipping.

Upon noticing my Tweet about this, HamWIthCam was kind enough to give me his very strong opinion that I should not have this repaired. Primarily due to the shutter life (100,000 cycles) and that I'm probably very close to that (initially I thought I was way over that), but also that I should instead put the money towards something with less use. A used 20D or 5D was his recommendation. The thinking being that I would want to buy the new replacement for the 5D when it's announced (I'm expecting September). While his logic made sense, the idea of putting money into another used camera (with condition not really known) did not appeal to me.

I gave it a lot of thought. One thing that struck me was that Canon's repair estimate did not contain any parts, only labor. HamWithCam suspected that it was only an initial estimate. I called Canon and they confirmed that it was a final estimate to repair AF, although if they would find something else wrong during the course of repairing AF they would contact me again for approval to fix whatever that might be at a higher cost. He was also adamant that a technician or engineer had not actually looked at my camera before that estimate was made. This I agreed with. However, the "labor only" aspect bothered me. If there was nothing to replace, then could I fix it? This lead me to retrace in my mind what lead to its apparent failure and the possibility that perhaps connecting it over USB and trying to control it with CameraWindow caused some sort of state or software error in the camera that could be rest.

So on May 7th I declined the repair. My plan was to reset the camera to factory default and see if that would clear up the problem. If not I could re-install the firmware. A helpful sales person at Showcase (local camera store) also recommended taking out both batteries (the main BP-511A and the secondary CR-2016) and letting it sit for a few minutes, thus also inducing a reset (presumably).

I waited in great anticipation for the camera to return. Canon took their sweet time returning it. They only shipped it back on May 17th, 10 days after I declined the repair.

So today I have the camera back. I put in a battery, CF card and a 50mm f/1.4 lens. Autofocus Works!
I try the 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens that the problem first occurred with. AF works!

So what happened?

I doubt that Canon actually repaired anything. The settings in the camera appear unchanged. The first thing that I would expect them to have done is reset the settings.

I suspect the problem cleared itself after a while. Note that when I sent the body back to Canon, it had with it only the body cap and eye cup. No battery (BP-511), although the secondary CR-2016 did remain. Perhaps they removed the CR-2016 just to check if it was there? But wouldn't that reset the settings?

I'm not entirely sure, but I like the fact that it works again, and that I saved myself a tad over $300 for what would most likely have been a useless repair. And thanks to HamWithCam for insisting that it wasn't worth throwing $300 at anyway. It seems like I have the best of both worlds now. :)

In the mean time, I did a lot of shopping and ordered a 5D which arrives tomorrow (Canon has a $300 instant rebate now). More on why I still chose to buy one, despite rumors of an imminent 5D mk II soon in another post.

And finally, it's a bit early to tell that the problem has gone away completely. While the camera does auto focus now, I'm hoping that I do not begin to see an intermittent problem develop over the near future.

TranceMist

Having my 20D's autofocus fail a few weeks ago got me to start thinking about new equipment again.

That has snowballed into a rather large consideration project and I've been doing a lot of comparison shopping.

I'm pretty much decided on getting a 5D. The remaining questions are which other lenses, and there's a bit of a consideration of also picking up a 40D body. However, I actually think I can revive autofocus on my 20D when it comes back from Canon (I declined the repair, they wanted $300). Having given that some more consideration, I hadn't tried a hard reset or reloading the firmware.... Canon is taking forever to return it.

I'm also leaning toward the L series prime lenses. But I've also got my eye on the 70-200. I already have the 24mm f/1.4L, 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.2L which is why those are not on the list.

My other consideration is whether I should get the 24-105mm f/4 L IS kit lens with the 5D, or skip it and get another prime.

The above are prices I've researched. Bold indicates the lowest price. I've eliminated the 2x Extender because the only lens it would work with would be the 135mm f/2L. I've also compared prices against a very reputable local shop. They're not even close to what I can get on-line, and I haven't even factored in the 7% local sales tax I'd have to pay there. The on-line prices do not include shipping. If you think I should consider some additional source, let me know.

I'm certainly not going to get all of this now, but these are the ones I'm looking at.

Finally, I spent a long time considering waiting for an long-rumored and awaited supposed 5D successor. My current analysis tells me that it would be September before Canon might announce one. Add a couple of months before they're shipping and available, and maybe a few more before the bugs get worked out of the first production run and it'd be almost a year (or more) before I'd want to buy one (EOS 1D mk III have had issues). In the mean time, the 5D is a very stable quality product.

TranceMist

A couple of years ago I bought both of my daughters (pre-teen) MacBooks. Along with that I gave each of them a $10/month iTunes allowance.

At the time I didn't buy much stuff on iTunes myself because of DRM. That has changed now that DRM-less music is much more pervasive on iTunes. Still, for them it was a simple solution and I didn't want to expose them to the non-purchase alternatives.

Needless to say, they've done a great job of spending that allowance and filling up their 80gb disks with all kinds of music, movies and a lot of TV shows. It wasn't long before we had to start to delete some stuff off of their laptop to make room for more. So there was the dilema. I paid for this stuff, I don't want to just throw it away.

The solution I found was a rather simple and elegant one: Transmit

My MacPro has tons of disk space (4TB at the moment). They have logins on it as well.

I use a program called Transmit to synchronize their MacBooks with the MacPro (one way), and then they delete what they no longer want on their MacBooks. The beauty of this solution is that they still have access to everything, even from their MacBook via iTunes sharing from the MacPro.

The trick was to set up the SSH daemon on their MacBooks and use SCP as the transport within Transmit. First I turned on Remote Login under the Sharing tab in System Preferences on their MacBooks. However, I didn't want their laptops open to a password guessing attack (kids use simple passwords). So I set the following two options in the SSH daemon's configuration file ():

PasswordAuthentication no
AllowUsers trancemist kid1 kid2

The first entry prevents passwords as being used to login to the system via the SSH protocol.
Only pre-authorized SSH keys are allowed.
The second line is a bit more security by only allowing specific users to login.

The last step was to generate an SSH key for each account on each laptop, and put the public key in the user's file.

When I want to sync (one way) their MacBooks to my MacPro, I just login as them, load the private SSH key into SSH Agent, and run Transmit's Synchronize feature as shown in the screenshot above. I pick their iTunes folders as the source (MacBook) and destination (MacPro) for the syncrhonisation. Transmit updates everything new from the MacBook to the MacPro.

The final step is to go into iTunes on the MacPro and select and point it at their iTunes Library. Now they have access to it all again.

I also run complete backups on their laptops to an external FireWire drive using SuperDuper!

TranceMist

I've been using PicLens a lot recently on Flickr to browse photo streams, photos from new contacts and photo pools. Even Explore (by calendar).
(PicLens is a browser plugin for Firefox and IE on Windows and Firefox and Safari on OSX)

One of the features that I love about PicLens is that I can view most photos at maximum resolution. I have a 30" monitor, so this makes a big difference. What's interesting is that as long as someone has uploaded a photo in full resolution, I can see it that way. Even if they don't allow "All sizes" to be viewed based on their permissions. So using PicLens I actually see a lot more than I would by just browsing Flickr or by using something like FlickrLeech.

However, I find that I don't Fav and comment on photos as much as I'd like to because it's so painful to re-enter PicLens and find the spot where I left off after popping out to Flickr in Firefox to leave a comment or Fav a photo.

So there are two features that I think PicLens should implement for Flickr.

1. I should be able to use a keyboard shortcut (i.e. "f") to mark a photo I'm viewing as a favorite.
2. I should be able to leave comments directly within PicLens. A keyboard shortcut (i.e. "c") should pop-up a small dialog box for me to leave a comment.

This would be nirvana.

If you think this would be a good idea, write to them and tell them.

TranceMist

I have a dilemma.

Two actually.

I. Autofocus in my 20D stopped working last week, and after diagnosing it with Canon, they recommended sending it in. I did, along with a note that the pop-up flash occasionally won't pop-up. Today I received notification from Canon that they want $300 to repair the camera (it's well over a year out of warranty).

So this isn't really much of a dilemma. While some may question spending $300 on fixing a 20D (HamWithCam already has), it's worth it to me. It's been of great use and I'll continue to use it (if the shutter doesn't break next -- I'm sure it's well past it's 100,000 cycle life. Several times over, most likely).

I've wanted a second body for a long time, and have been thinking about it much more since I've been without my SLR for a week.
(in the mean time, I've gotten a few good shots with some of my point and shoots)

Hence the next dilemma.

II. XSi (450D), 40D, or 5D?

Let me preface this with stating that I've wanted a full-frame sensor (i.e. 5D) for nearly a year, and have been holding off for the past six months waiting (hoping) that Canon will announce a 5D mk II (or maybe even a 7D). After all, they've revamped everything else in the product line.

Here are the things I'm waiting for in a revised 5D:

• Higher ISO
• Highlight priority
• Dust vibrator (you know, in front of the sensor, I change lenses a lot)
• Digic III (because III is better than II?)

So here are my real questions:

Which of the above three has better ISO with less noise?

Is ISO 3200 on a 5D better than ISO 3200 on a 40D?

Even if that's the case, I still want full frame (think wide angle).

What do you think? Will Canon ever update the 5D?

TranceMist

Cerro Salcantay - 6271m / 20,574'

In May of 2005 Marjon and I set out to Peru. The primary objective of our trip was to visit Machu Picchu (although we saw a lot more). As typical for us, we tend to a fair amount of research in advance, but make only basic reservations and figure the rest out along the way. This worked fairly well for us when we arrived in Lima with only an onward flight to Cusco the next day, but no accommodations there and no onward reservations. We'd figure it out along the way.


Plaza des Armas - Cusco

We knew in advance that the Inka Trail now requires reservations which can only be booked through a trekking company (you can't trek it on your own, sadly). So we figured we'd arrange that when we arrived in Cusco. We had already planned to spend nearly a week in Cusco to acclimate to the 10,500'+ (3200m) elevation. So, we had plenty of time, or so we thought. We discovered the hard way that all spaces were booked for months in advance. We ran around to at least a dozen outfits, hoping someone might be able to arrange something. This is South America after-all, doesn't "no" just mean "You look like a gringo and we want you to pay more?" Not so.


Marjon at the Hotel Wiracocha in Cusco

All was not lost though, and in retrospect I'm actually glad it worked out this way. We had arrived with all of our backpacking gear, tent, sleeping bags, food for 5 days, all we needed was to purchase some fuel locally (very easy). I dreaded the idea of being hoarded along by some tour operator, along a crowded trail. Then there was the equipment question. These treks are all inclusive. They provide the gear and the porters to carry it. The benefit is that you can hike along carrying little more than a day pack in splendid comfort and have camp and dinner ready for you when you arrive at the end of each day. This all sounds good to most people. Personally, I don't like to rely on such outfits. I suspected their equipment would be cheap, and -- this being Peru -- their food likely unsafe to eat (poor sanitary conditions). But what to do? Should we then carry our own gear while we're along with a tour operator that provides everything for everyone else? Marjon was up for it. I'm glad that I never had to make this decision.

As we were looking for spaces for the Inka Trail, one of the tour operators suggested the Salcantay trek. It was relatively unknown at the time. Only a couple of operators seemed to be running tours though it. It's through the wilderness well southwest of Machu Picchu. It's not paved, no reservations or permits are required... and here's the best part: very few people go there. Perfect! We decided to go for it, on our own, no tour operators no crowds.

We had actually read in Lonely Planet about a similar trek that also starts from the town of Mollepata, but then crosses on the eastern side of Cerro Salcantay and into fairly dry territory where there are a few small ruins. So we already had an idea of where to start, and the suggestion from that description to hire an arriero in Mollepata. However, we didn't really have any good description of the route, nor any topographical maps of that area. I had my GPS, but it was only loaded with the Garmin Worldmap which is very basic and wouldn't even get us to Mollepata let alone be useful for navigation along the trek (now I would have checked the free GPS MapCenter2). None of the local shops or outfitters in Cusco had any maps suitable for navigation. The answer was South American Explorers in Cusco. There we purchased the 1:100,000 map of the "Machupicchu" sector published by the Instituto Gragrafico Nacional (IGN) in Lima. The title is somewhat misleading as it doesn't actually cover all of Machu Picchu, but it does cover the entire trek from just north of Mollepata to Santa Teresa.


Map of Salcantay Trek with GPS tracks from MapSource (full size)

Our plan was to get to Mollepata and hire an arriero to carry our gear to Santa Teresa. The trek passes over a 15,000' (4578m) pass just below Cerro Salcantay (6271m / 20,574'). We knew that weren't in shape enough, nor acclimated to carry our 50lb packs over that. The only public transportation from Cusco to Mollepata is a colectivo that runs daily at 06:30, the location of its origin was described vaguely and its regularity was in question. By chance we discussed this with the owner at the Hotel Wiracocha where we were staying. He recommended taking a taxi. It would be approximately a two hour ride and would cost about $22! Marjon and I looked at each other in disbelief, at first thinking that was so much more expensive than the $1 or $2 each that the colectivo would cost. Suddenly the reality of speed, comfort, assured transportation and flexible departure time struck us. "We'll take it!"


Views along the route from Cusco to Mollepata

Mollepata (elev. 9,456' / 2882m) is a very small town situated up on a hilltop at the bottom of the Rio Blanco Valley. A tiny dirt road winds serpentine up a dry mountain for many miles before reaching a town that appears completely isolated. We found a small hotel where we got a room with two beds, access to external hot showers and breakfast. All for $5 each. Given how tourism has been growing recently, especially due to overflow from the Inka Trail, this town will likely not last this way for long. However, it was an incredibly beautiful quaint, quiet little town when we were there in May of 2005.


Marjon With The Owner of the Hotel in Mollepata

While the hotel owner's son prepares us dinner, we discusse our plans with the owner and ask if he knows of a good arriero. "Sure, my brother is an arriero, I will get him." A few minutes later, Neptali Estrada Perez appears before us. A man in his late 40s, wide jaw with brimming mustache and a welcoming smile, Neptali strikes me as a seasoned man with good balance and a sense of humor. I instantly like him. We discuss our plans, Marjon conducts a bit of negotiation (he insists on bringing two animals), we settle on a price and agree to meet at 8am the next day for the start.

Neptali has done this route many times. His value becomes evident the minute we leave town. He takes us through a labyrinth or trails and zigzag paths that we would not likely have discovered ourselves. He knows this trail well, he's done it many times. As it would come out later, he's not just our arriero, but considers himself our guide.


Marjon with Neptali (our arriero) two hours out of Mollepata
with Cerro Salcantay visible in the background.

The road winds steadily up on a hill above the west bank of the Rio Blanco towards Salcantay. By the time we reach our intended camp at the Soraypampa meadow we have traveled 12.1 miles and gained 3,135' (955m) in elevation. Soraypampa is a big meadow with a beautiful view of Cerro Salcantay. It's green with lots of water flowing, a few cattle grazing, and a couple of dirt huts at its edges.

Water is plentiful but we're well aware that it contains at least Giardia and probably many other bacteria. I find a good flow of water, filter it with my MSR Miniworks, and then add a few drops of chlorine and let it sit. So we treated all of our water while backpacking in Peru.

Just as I'm walking back to our camp, a tour group with about a dozen trekkers begins arriving and makes camp nearby. Given how large Soraypampa is, we don't really feel crowded.

We pitch our tent, eat some dinner and Neptali announces that he's off to see if he can find a place to sleep in one of the huts. They're homes of the peasants there, but they usually rent out a small space for arrieros for a few pesos. After we've settled into our tent, Neptali returns to announce that the place is full of "pulgas" (roaches) and he won't sleep there. He asks if we have room in our tent. That's a rather silly question given that our tent doesn't look like it will fit two from the outside, and certainly not three. However, I brought along a rain tarp just in case we had to deal with inclement weather and I offer to make a small shelter using two trekking poles to prop up the ends. He seems very happy with that and so we go back to sleep.


Our Camp at Soraypampa. Neptali Slept Under The Tarp.

We awaken to a fantastically beautiful morning at 12,591' (3873m). Marjon has a bit of a headache, probably from the elevation. We pack up and begin our trek to Cerro Salcantay. Neptali knows the way. The views are breathtaking. Salcantay has a few clouds shrouding some of the view, but not enough to hide her completely. The valley is lush green and the scale of everything is very impressive.

We pose for a few pictures and let the animals get some water before beginning the really steep climb up to the 15,000' pass.


Cerro Salcantay

The climb up over 15,000' feet is grueling. As I get over 14,000' I can barely take three steps before I need to catch my breath. I'm wearing only a light trekking t-shirt and shorts. My pack and everything else is mounted on the horse. Marjon decided to ride the mule. She's doing even worse than I am. The air is thin. She's getting a migraine and can hardly think. Sure signs of elevation sickness. But we press on, knowing that we will quickly descend down the other side and not expose her to this for too long. I begin to feel cold. As I approach the top of the pass, warm humid air from the high jungle on the other side blows over, quickly cools and saps all of my energy. I decide to put on a jacket. Suddenly I feel better and can continue. It's a struggle just to put one foot in front of the other. Finally, we reach the pass.


Me At The Pass (4,630m /15,200 feet) below Salcantay

After a short break we begin to descend down the other side into the high jungle. The vegetation is lush. The air warmer and moist. The valleys surreal in their beauty.


The Mist of the Jungle - descending to Huamantay

After another break for water and then lunch, we arrive at what is the most beautiful alpine meadow and valley I have ever seen. Completely unspoiled by people. Though there are a couple of small huts and what appear to be some subsistence peasants with goats and horses, this all blends in perfectly with the environment. Nothing seems out of place, and it looks like it has been this way for centuries. Time appears to have left this place alone.


Marjon arriving at Huamantay

I am convinced that this is where I'd like to make camp. The beauty is breathtaking. However, Neptali is adamant that we must continue onward. That we will not have enough time to finish the trek otherwise. Not having really calculated the distances myself I go along, reluctantly, regretting it as we descend into the jungle. In retrospect I would have preferred to spend an extra day on the trek and camp here. If you do this trek, I highly recommend it. It is the most beautiful place along this entire trek, in my opinion.

As we descend down into the jungle, a couple of guys from the other group with the tour operator catch up to us and ask if they can borrow our mule because one of their women has developed some sort of digestive illness and can barely walk (poor sanitary conditions by the cooks, as I suspected). They are from Isreal, with their heavy accents and not much on charm. Their tour operator appears to have nothing for them, unprepared for such an event. However, their need is real and even though Marjon was slightly limping on a swollen ankle, she agrees to let them use our mule, saying it'll probably be good for her to walk a bit, downhill now. Neptali is insistent that we charge them something. I recognize their desperation and the fact that we're in the wilderness of the high Andes and decide that the higher rules of the mountains apply, you give assistance to those who need it here. We let her ride on the mule, no charge. They are very grateful, and their mood improves.

After several hours of downhill on a steep muddy trail, we arrive at camp just at dusk. It's a small open clearing in the jungle. Crowded with lots of tents and tours at this point. It's exactly the kind of place I wanted to avoid, and I still wish we had stayed at Humantay. We make camp. Neptali recommends we offer a few pesos for the use of the land to the owners in the small hut, so we do. As we unpack our gear, pitch our tent, set up our tiny "pocket rocket" butane stove we notice the porters and guides from the other tours watching us. Later, Neptali tells us very proudly that they've never seen anyone with such "sophisticated gear" go it alone here. They're fascinated. He's proud to have such clients. We think it's charming, but we're tired and just want to go to bed.


Me at Our Camp on Day 2 - Totorayoc

The next day is a long trek down along the Rio Santa Teresa. We're in the jungle. It's warm, there a mosquitos and other bugs now, but not enough to bother me. The terrain is not as interesting as higher up in the mountains, but we do spot the occasional hut or small hand farming area up high on the mountain slopes. After a few hours we arrive at what appears to be a small snack bar. Made out of wood, and selling bags of 10 Pomegranates for a few pesos. These things are growing all over the place, but at the price it's not even worth picking them yourself. We go through 3 or 4 bags of these fantastically ripe and sweet fruit. They were simply amazing.

Another two or three hours of trekking downhill and we arrive at a horribly ugly little settlement called La Playa. It's quite a stark contrast from the natural beauty of the past three days. Trash is littered all over the place and there are only some makeshift sheds around. Nobody seems to care about how this place looks. Neptali informs us that this is the end of our trek. There is a road that leads from here to Santa Teresa, the town along the Rio Urubamba which leads to Machu Picchu. We can walk it in about three and a half hours or pay a few pesos to go in a colectivo.


Saying Goodbye to Neptali at La Playa

We pay Neptali for his three days of excellent service, and I give him the topographical map of the area that I had bought in Cusco as a gift. I'm not really sure he knows how to read such a map (nor does he need it) but he accepts it with great pride. I suspect it will be a personal treasure to him rather than of actual use. We say goodbye and the minute he leaves we instantly miss him. He was an excellent guide, a good friend, and not to mention arriero.

We wait in La Playa for what seems like eternity for the colectivo. Finally, after the drivers have a leisurely lunch they start loading up. In a small Toyota 4x4 van, which seems not much larger than a typical suburban minivan they manage to pack 15 people and all of their backpacks on the roof and set out down the steep, pothole laden dirt road to Santa Teresa.

Santa Teresa used to be a nice town. However, a severe flood on the Urubamba river wiped out most of the town which sat too close and too low to the river. The flood also wiped out the railroad that came from Aguas Caliente (Machu Picchu) and the bridge across the Rio Urubamba. Thus the town was cut off from the rest of Peru. What remains now is an ugly shanty town with muddy streets, all built high up above the original town. We were advised to camp on the soccer field with the rest of the tour groups. A rather anticlimactic end to our journey, but not all bad. We met several of the other trekkers, including the Israelis who said the girl was feeling much better. We found a hot shower in a shack a few blocks away and were advised to keep all of our packs inside our tent overnight due to the possibility of theft. That turned out to make for a rather cramped two person tent.


View from Our Tent in Santa Teresa

Since the railroad and bridge were washed out, the only way to Machu Picchu is to cross a Tyrolean bridge across the raging Urubamba river, hike a couple of miles to a point where a truck picks everyone up and takes them to the hydro electric plant a few miles up river, the new terminus of the train from Augas Caliente.


Crossing the Rio Urubamba in Santa Teresa

So we proceeded with the rest of the tour groups. We crossed the bridge, walked the mile on sand, and rode the truck to "Hydroelectrico" to wait for the train.


Marjon Riding the Truck from Santa Teresa to Hydroelectrico

And in Hydroelectro we wait.

For the train.

Nobody seems to know when the train to Machu Picchu arrives or departs.

Finding out where to purchase tickets is even a mystery.

We feed a skinny injured cat some leftovers from our tuna pouch.

We wait.

Eventually, the train comes.


Waiting for the Train to Machu Picchu

Hydroelectrico is just that. A hyrdo electric station that takes advantage of the sharp decline in the elevation of the Rio Urubamba between the east and west sides of Machu Picchu. They've actually drilled a long hole under Machu Picchu and use the pressure of the water to generate electricity. Little of this is actually evident there, except for the few guards and fences that make sure you don't get too close. However, this is also now the terminus of the tracks to Aguas Caliente.


The Backside of Machu Picchu

In the end the train came and we got to Aguas Caliente and had a fantastic time visiting Machu Picchu.

Photos from our entire trip to Peru are available in my Peru 2005 set on Flickr.

Reference Info

Location of Salcantay Trek in Peru (full size)


Satellite Image of Salcantay Trek (full size)
(yellow is train route between Aguas Caliente and Cusco)

You can download my GPS data from the Salcantay Trek on my Maps download page as either a GPX file or Google Earth KMZ file.

TranceMist

I've been using PicLens for a little over a week now to explore various streams on Flickr. It works very well on sets, users' streams, pools, etc. PicLens is a plug-in (extension) that works with various browsers (Firefox, Safari and Internet Explorer). It's not just for Flickr, PicLens also supports many other websites such as Picasa, Facebook, MySpace, etc. Though I've only used it with Flickr.

The above screen shot is of PicLens in full screen mode (on my 30" Apple Cinema Display) while browsing pbo31's "your favorites" set.

It has a fantastic kinetic motion based interface, similar to what you may know from the iPhone. You just drag your mouse across the screen (while holding the primary button) and the photos fly across your screen. Click on one and it gets bigger, double click on one and it goes full screen. What I find particularly fascinating about this is that PicLens will allow me to view photos in full screen mode from people that have not allowed their full resolution photos to be accessible through the standard Flickr interface! It has really revolutionized how I explore streams on Flickr.

I initially came across PicLens in a comment by Greg Furry posted on Thomas Hawk's article about FlickrLeech 2. While I have used FlickrLeech in the past, its user interface pales in comparison to PicLens, IMO. My only slight gripe about PicLens is that I wish it were easier to escape out of it to leave a comment on someone's photo. You can do that, but you can't get back in exactly where you left off, which is annoying. I also haven't investigated to see if clicking on a photo in PicLens counts as a "view" on that photo page, it would be a shame if it did not.

TranceMist

I've been wondering lately why the above photo of my home office that I posed on Flickr has been getting so many views and favs lately (5,287 and 17 as of this writing).

Technorati provides the answer.

It appears Enterprise Nation (a home business website) has decided to publish my photo as their "Home Office of the Week".




And another website, Shedworking decided to echo it.

TranceMist